Cayman Islands Kiteboarding, SCUBA, Snorkle

North Side, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

While the Caribbean has many beautiful islands, Grand Cayman is truly a gem.  Situated between Cuba and Jamaica, Grand Cayman is part of the tiny British overseas territory of the Cayman Islands, along with its smaller sisters Little Cayman and Cayman Brac.  As there was no native population upon its discovery by Columbus in 1503, many current residents are North American, British, and Jamaican immigrants or their descendents.  Firmly a First World country, Cayman is a great destination for both amateur and seasoned travelers: English is the official language, American money is always accepted, and you can be daring with your culinary experiences…or not.  Caymanians enjoy a very high standard of living and pay no taxes; many of the houses here are positively huge, even by American standards.  This is a refreshingly conservative country; its people are quiet, church-going folks and much of the island shuts down on Sundays.  But Cayman’s uniqueness doesn’t end there.  Some of the world’s most pristine diving and snorkeling is found here, thanks to conservation efforts and the establishment of marine parks and replenishment zones.  The reef’s health and its vibrant colors are truly astounding.

If you’re looking for crowd-free white beaches, fresh Caribbean seafood, and the world’s best snorkeling right in your backyard, then the North Side of Grand Cayman is for you.  Skip the tourist trap that is George Town and Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman’s cruise ship port and main drag of resorts, tacky tourist shops, and piles of designer brands that we have in the States, anyway.  The North Side includes the sleepy towns of Cayman Kai and Rum Point, and feels deserted—in a relaxing way—even when it’s high tourist season in George Town.  The secluded North Side is a 40-minute drive from the airport—don’t forget to drive on the left!  It is actually difficult to get lost on this 76-square mile, completely flat island; just stick to the main roads and always veer to the right in roundabouts to get out of George Town and on your way to the paradise that is the North Side.

The North Side district is quintessential peacefulness.  Most lodgings here are vacation rentals: many part-time residents rent their homes while they’re away, and it’s rare to pass a house without a cute name and a phone number displayed.  People come here especially to escape; days are lazy and deliciously warm, with dependable trade winds that keep the temperature at a perfect 80 degrees.  While lacking the lush, nearly impenetrable tropical rainforests that nearby islands such as Jamaica boast, Grand Cayman’s North Side has its fair share of serene, mangrove-lined beaches and palm trees to hang a hammock from.  One can walk the impossibly-white beaches and not see a soul.  Even with increased development, other than the handful hanging out at Rum Point’s kid-friendly beach and colorful Wreck Bar and Grill, one literally wonders where all the people are during the day—it seems they materialize at night to converge on the few dining establishments on this side.   

And while we’re on the topic of food, let us discuss the treat that is Cayman-style fare.  “Cayman-style” refers to onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes in a spicy sauce that is added to fish and other meat.  There is always a fresh catch prepared Cayman-style, usually grouper, mahi mahi, or wahoo, simple but out-of-this-world delicious.  Conch fritters (pronounced konk, a large chewy mollusk deep-fried with peppers and herbs) are served everywhere; Kaibo Beach Bar and Grill’s fritters come with a side of jerk mayo and are highly recommended.  A nod to American preferences, most menus have less daring options like hamburgers and fries, but the adventurous should try sea turtle—it’s farmed here, so it’s ecologically sound and legal, though pricey.  Jamaican influences are saltfish and ackee, jerk chicken, curried goat, and oxtail, all of which are outstanding.  As in many Caribbean countries, your plate wouldn’t be complete without a generous helping of red beans and rice and a side of fried plantains.  Other staples are callaloo, a Jamaican side similar to spinach, and, surprisingly, coleslaw.  Vivine’s Kitchen in the East End district is a well-worth it 20-minute drive east from North Side and serves traditional Caymanian food with a changing daily menu and to-die-for homemade guava juice.  Those into fine dining must try the Kaibo Yacht Club Restaurant, where the presentation and the flavor is positively stunning, and you always get to try a little something extra, compliments of the chef.

The snorkeling here has to be seen to be believed, and certainly cannot be adequately described in words.  Your North Side vacation rental will most likely back up to the water, so awesome snorkeling is accessible right from your backyard.  The visibility is great, the temperature is warm, and the depth rarely exceeds 12 feet, as there is a protective barrier reef you can snorkel right out to.  Every time you go, you’ll see something new.  Huge stingrays half-buried in the sand or gliding right past you, territorial lobsters the size of a large housecat (not kidding!), beautiful green and purple sea fans, and vast fields of live conch scooting around on the sandy bottom.  Those with a sharp eye may even spot a peacock flounder, a moray eel, or the elusive and deadly stonefish.  Fish of all colors celebrate their healthy home: butterflyfish, parrotfish, groupers, squirrelfish, even an occasional barracuda, dart and hover amidst the thriving coral heads.

Kiteboarding on North Side, Grand Cayman

The North Side is one of those ultimate kiting destinations that is so good, you want to tell everyone about it, but at the same time, keep it a cherished secret.  While East End is mentioned in travel guides as being a kiter’s paradise, North Side is the one with bragging rights.  The steady 15-mph northeast trades blow side-on here, with very rare, stronger north winds occasionally bringing a challenge in the winter.  The azure blue of the warm Caribbean Sea is like kiting in a swimming pool.  You can launch and land right from your backyard beach and enjoy butterwater conditions, perfect for cruising and practicing new tricks.